From Andean Peaks to Salt Flats: Trekking Through Peru & Bolivia's Epic Landscapes
Lima, the "Ciudad de los Reyes" (City of Kings), isn't just a historical footnote – it's a vibrant city full of traditions, contemporary flair, and a culinary scene that has taken the world by storm. For the month of February 2024, I embarked on a journey to Peru, a journey that transcended the typical tourist experience. I marveled at the breathtaking ruins of Machu Picchu and the otherworldly beauty of the Salar de Uyuni (Uyuni Salt Flats) in Bolivia, but this trip was also about so much more. It was about delving into the heart of Peruvian culture, pushing myself outside my comfort zone, and creating memories that would forever etch themselves in my soul.
To view a summary of my entire month, click below:
A Culinary Odyssey in Lima:
My adventure began with a feast for the senses. Lima boasts a staggering number of world-class restaurants, and I wasted no time in indulging. My first stop was the legendary Astrid y Gaston, a culinary institution that has consistently ranked among the world's best restaurants. The tasting menu was a meticulously crafted and each dish was a work of art, showcasing Peru's diverse ingredients and innovative cooking techniques. From the melt-in-your-mouth seared scallops with tiger milk to the explosion of textures and tastes in the guinea pig dish with aji amarillo (yellow pepper) sauce and crispy quinoa, every bite was a revelation.
Kjolle provided a more contemporary take on Peruvian flavors. This trendy hotspot, nestled in the Barranco district, a bohemian haven for artists and musicians, focuses on fresh, seasonal seafood. I savored the langostinos (langoustines) bathed in a vibrant ají limo (lime pepper) sauce, the delicate sweetness of the scallops accentuated by a nutty quinoa risotto, and a perfectly seared octopus served with a smoky paprika aioli. Each dish was bursting with flavor, showcasing the bounty of the Pacific Ocean that kisses the Peruvian coastline.
Fine dining and upscale restaurants are just one facet of Lima's culinary scene. One of the most memorable experiences was a backstreets food tour in the vibrant district of Miraflores. Wandering through narrow alleyways, I indulged in a world of bustling street vendors and hole-in-the-wall eateries. Throughout my month in Peru I sampled juicy anticuchos (skewered grilled meat), over induldged in MANY ceviche dishes, tried crispy papas rellenas (stuffed potatoes), and steaming bowls of lomo saltado (stir-fried beef with vegetables). Each bite was a testament to the heart and soul poured into this country’s food culture.
Learning to Love the Lomo Saltado and Beyond: A Cooking Class Adventure:
Wanting to peek behind the curtain of Peruvian cuisine, I signed up for a traditional cooking class. Stepping into the cozy kitchen of a local chef, I was greeted by a warm smile and the enticing aroma of simmering spices. Under her patient guidance, I learned the art of preparing classic Peruvian dishes like lomo saltado and Ceviche. He explained the importance of fresh ingredients, the use of aji peppers for their distinctive heat (tip from me to you, don’t touch your face after handling these peppers - trust me), and the crucial role of lime juice in balancing the flavors. Chopping, stirring, and laughing alongside my fellow travelers turned friends, I not only learned valuable culinary skills but also gained a deeper appreciation for the time-honored traditions of Peruvian cooking.
Exploring the City on Two Wheels: A Bike Tour Through Miraflores
Lima isn't just about indulging in culinary delights; it's also a city to be explored. Taking a bike tour through the charming Miraflores district proved to be a delightful way to experience the city's pulse. The Pacific breeze whipped through my hair as I pedaled along the scenic Malecón (oceanfront boardwalk), taking in the stunning sunset views of the coastline. Along the way, our guide pointed out landmarks like the iconic Parque del Amor (Love Park) with its whimsical sculptures and the pre-Columbian Huaca Pucllana pyramid, a stark reminder of Lima's rich history. We stopped at a local restaurant to sample local bites (and drinks :)) immersing ourselves in the vibrant sights and sounds of everyday life. While in Peru, definitely try the pisco sours. This national drink is made with Pisco: a grape brandy produced in Peru and Chile. Peruvian Pisco tends to have a more floral and complex flavor compared to Chilean Pisco. Then add in: fresh lime juice, simple syrup, egg whites, and angostura bitters. You won’t regret this one. (but you will regret 3 of them :))
Delving into the Cultural Heart of Lima: A Night of Traditional Dance
To truly understand a culture, you have to experience its art and traditions. One evening, I ventured into a historic theater in central Lima to witness a mesmerizing performance of traditional Peruvian dance. The stage came alive with vibrant costumes, swirling skirts, and the infectious energy of the dancers. One number showcased the elegance of the Marinera Limeña, a flirtatious coastal dance with roots in colonial times. The female dancers, adorned in flowing dresses with bright floral embroidery, captivated the audience with their graceful movements and coy glances. The male dancers, in traditional suits and wide-brimmed hats, countered with their energetic footwork and playful gestures. Another piece depicted the vibrant energy of the Huaylas, a dance originating in the highlands of the Andes. The dancers, dressed in colorful ponchos and woven hats, stomped and twirled to the rhythmic beat of drums and panpipes. The music, with its haunting melodies and lively rhythms, transported me to the heart of the Andes, a place where ancient traditions continue to thrive.
Testing My Trivia Mettle and Unleashing My Inner Drummer
Travel isn't just about sightseeing; it's also about stepping outside your comfort zone and trying new things. One evening, I found myself in the basement of our coworking space (insert name). A member of our group had volunteered to organize a team trivia night for us, and wow, did she ever nail it. Rounds ranged from Peruvian history and international geography to international pop culture and current events. The atmosphere was electric, fueled by laughter, friendly competition, and the joy of learning something new. While my team (The Sexy Piranhas) walked away away with the top prize (a bottle of the traditional Peruvian alcohol - Pisco), and the bragging rights of clearly being the smartest in the bunch :)
A Lesson in Afro-Beats and the Cajón
While salsa steals the hearts of many in this country, another rhythm called to my inner percussionist. An Afro-beats class provided an unexpected and exhilarating experience. The room pulsed with the energetic beats of drums and djembes. Our instructor, a passionate musician with a contagious smile, patiently walked us through the basic techniques of playing the cajón, a wooden box drum with a distinctive sound. Mastering the satisfying "boom-chick" rhythm of the cajón proved challenging for some, and an absolute blast for the rest of us. By the end of the class - we all finished our beats together and sounded something like a real drum circle! This former drummer was very impressed!
Giving Back and Building Hope: Volunteering in Lima
My time in Lima wouldn't have been complete without giving back to the community. I volunteered with a local organization that aimed to improve the living conditions of underprivileged families. The day I spent helping build a house for a family in need was a humbling experience. Working alongside other volunteers I am travelling with and local construction workers, I mixed concrete, hauled supplies up many steps and steep pathways in the fluvellas, sanded and painted walls, and help wherever I could. The smiles on the faces of the family as they witnessed their new home taking shape was nothing short of magical. This experience was a stark reminder of the importance of human connection and the power of collective effort in creating a better future.
Weekend Adventures: A Desert Oasis Beckons - Huacachina
Lima's vibrant energy was intoxicating, but the lure of adventure beckoned. A weekend getaway to Huacachina, a desert oasis nestled amidst the sand dunes of Ica, provided a welcome change of scenery. This small town, nicknamed the "Oasis of America," pulsated with a lively energy. The first order of business: beach time. We travelled into the heart of (find name) where we defended onto a picture perfect beach. Well - it would have been had it not been so crowded. Haha, We didn’t say for too long as we had a full day ahead, but this girl always treasures time in the sun.
The desert landscape offered more than just beaches. Huacachina boasts some of the world’s best sand during and a hidden gem – a beautiful private reserve teeming with diverse flora and fauna.
Huacachina's Hidden Paradise: A Swing Among the Palms
The private reserve within Huacachina was a hidden oasis within the already surprising oasis town. Our trip began with an unexpected form of transportation to what we would come to find out was a plethora of spurises coming at us. As we exited our hostel, we were greeted with dune buggies. We quickly pilled in and were off. Rumbling through the city streets and eventually entering some of the purest sand you’ve ever seen. We screamed, tasted and turned our way through the dunes for about an hour until most of us were dizzy but happy. Then we arrived at the Private lagoon reserve in the middle of the dessert. What? Yes. A lagoon. It was simply unforgettable. We swam, paddle boarded and took out boats for a few hours of frolicking. We were stunned to stay the least.
Little did we know, the next surprise was even bigger. Our dunes took us a few mins drive back into the dessert where, to our absolute shock and awe, there was a sunset beach party (complete with a DJ, Bar and snacks) was set up for us to transition for day to night. And did we ever.
The entire weekend from start to finished was unforgettable.
From Desert Sands to Ancient Stones: A Journey to Cusco and Machu Picchu
My Peruvian adventure wasn't complete without a weekend trip to Cusco, the ancient capital of the Inca Empire. As I disembarked from the plane, the thin air of the Andes hit me. Cusco, nestled at an altitude of over 11,000 feet, is a city steeped in history and vibrant culture. Wandering through the cobbled streets, I marveled at the magnificent Inca architecture, with its perfectly cut stones and imposing doorways. Each step through Cusco was a journey through time, a reminder of the powerful Inca civilization that once dominated the region.
The Crown Jewel of the Andes: Machu Picchu
While the classic Inca Trail trek is a popular route to Machu Picchu, I opted for a different kind of adventure. My journey involved a complex web of buses and trains, a logistical feat in itself! Despite the travel challenges, reaching the Lost City of the Incas remained the highlight of my Peruvian trip.
The train ride offered a stunning introduction to the region. Lush valleys, cascading waterfalls, and majestic Andean peaks unfolded before me as I snaked my way through the breathtaking landscape. Each stop brought a new perspective, from charming local villages to breathtaking vistas.
Finally, after a strategic combination of public transportation, I arrived at the Sun Gate (Inti Punku). There, like countless others, I experienced the awe-inspiring moment of catching my first glimpse of Machu Picchu. The sight of this perfectly carved stone city, with its majestic temples and imposing citadel, left me speechless. The stories shared by our tour guide about what was known of the Incas and Machi Picchu itself left me in awe. Wandering through the ancient ruins, I couldn't help but feel a deep respect for the ingenuity of the Inca people who built this magnificent city centuries ago.
A Picnic with Lamas and the Sacred Valley
Beyond Machu Picchu, the Sacred Valley offered a glimpse into the heart of the ancient Inca way of life. Visiting the Pisac market, a vibrant display of local crafts and textiles, allowed me to immerse myself with the locals. We embarked on a unique experiences – Touring salt mines and learning about how it is harvested and a picnic lunch with llamas. These gentle creatures, with their inquisitive eyes and soft fur, became my companions as I enjoyed a delicious lunch overlooking a breathtaking Andean valley. Learning about the cultural significance of llamas in the Inca civilization added another layer of depth to my understanding of this ancient culture.
Rainbow Mountain
The four-hour bus ride to Rainbow Mountain was an adventure in itself. Hairpin switchbacks and narrow roads barely wide enough for one car became obstacle courses as we dodged oncoming traffic. Despite the white-knuckled moments, the anticipation grew with every turn. However, upon arrival, our hopes for epic photos were dashed as snow and clouds rolled in just as we started the hike. Bracing the cold in nothing but shorts, we completed the trek, but the vibrant colors of the mountain were muted under the grey sky. Despite the lack of postcard-perfect views, the experience wasn't all bad. We even participated in a fascinating ancient Inca thank-you ceremony, offering coca leaves, building a small rock structure, and pouring a libation to express our gratitude for the journey.
A Journey Beyond Borders: Embracing the Extremes of Bolivia
My Peruvian adventure wouldn't have been complete without venturing beyond its borders. A five-day trip to Bolivia awaited, a journey that involved a healthy dose of travel juggling – flights, overnight buses, sprinter vans – but the experiences it offered were invaluable. While the sheer volume of travel could be challenging at times, the payoff was immense.
The Surreal Beauty of the Salar de Uyuni
Our journey began on the Uyuni Salt Flats, the world's largest expanse of salt flats. Stretching as far as the eye can see, the blindingly white surface created a surreal landscape unlike anything I had ever witnessed.
Taking perspective-bending photos, mimicking giant footprints on the vast white canvas, was a moment of pure amusement. We indulges in a private lunch set up on the salt flats themselves, a seemingly impossible feat in this desolate landscape. As the sun began to dip below the horizon, painting the sky with fiery hues, we raised a toast to this unforgettable experience. The sunset over the Uyuni Salt Flats was breathtaking; the sky transformed into a canvas of fiery oranges, pinks, and purples, reflecting on the vast expanse of salt, creating an almost ethereal scene.
For more images from the salt flats - click on the youtube video at the beginning or the end of this post
Sleeping in a Hotel Made of Salt: An Unforgettable Overnight Stay
After a day of exploring the surreal landscape of the Salar de Uyuni, we spent the night in a unique hotel – one entirely built of salt! The walls, some of the furniture, and even the artwork were crafted from salt blocks, creating an otherworldly ambiance. Sleeping in a room made of salt was an experience unlike any other, adding another layer of surrealism to our Bolivian adventure.
Deep into the Bolivian Andes: Awe-Inspiring Landscapes and Cultural Encounters
The next day, we ventured deeper into the Bolivian Andes. The landscape transformed dramatically, with snow-capped peaks piercing the clear blue sky. We encountered vibrant flocks of flamingos gracing the shores of high-altitude lagoons, their pink feathers adding a splash of color to the rugged backdrop. As we climbed higher, the air grew thinner, but the breathtaking views kept us motivated. We stopped to watch the sunset and we were all quite simply, in awe. This was a sunset like no other. One other particularly memorable stop was at a natural hot spring nestled amidst the mountains. Soaking in the warm water, surrounded by the majestic Andean peaks, was a moment of pure relaxation and rejuvenation.
Staying at the World's Highest Altitude Eco-Lodge: A Sustainable Adventure
Our journey culminated with a night stay at the world's highest altitude eco-lodge - Hotel Tayka El Desierto. Located at over 16,000 feet above sea level, this eco-friendly lodge offered stunning views and a commitment to sustainable practices. Despite the thin air, a group dinner and accompanying wine to celebrate our friends birthday made for an unforgettable experience.
A Month Transformed: Flavors, Culture, and Adventure
Leaving Peru and Bolivia was a bittersweet experience. This wasn't just a month of ticking things off a travel bucket list; it was a journey of self-discovery and cultural immersion. From indulging in world-class cuisine in Lima to trekking through the breathtaking Andes and witnessing the surreal beauty of the Salar de Uyuni, this adventure transformed me. I learned to appreciate the beauty of diverse landscapes, the richness of different cultures, and the importance of stepping outside your comfort zone. The memories I created – the laughter shared with fellow travelers, the adrenaline rush of Huacachina, the awe-inspiring sight of Machu Picchu – will forever stay etched in my heart. This wasn't just a trip; it was a trip full of flavors, culture, and adventure, and one that I am not soon to forget.
